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How to price custom jewellery, with a worked example

A custom ring or pendant has several costs that move independently: the metal changes price daily, stones vary, and design and bench time are yours to value. This guide breaks a quote into seven parts so nothing is forgotten, then walks through one piece in rand.

The seven parts of a quote

  1. Metal. Weight in grams multiplied by the price per gram of the alloy you are using (9ct, 18ct, platinum and so on). Metal prices move every day, so a quote should state how long it is valid. Many workshops add an allowance for metal lost in casting and finishing; if you do, show it as its own line so you can see what it costs.
  2. Stones. The cost of each stone, times the number you are using. Note whether you are buying them or the client is supplying them.
  3. Setting. Labour to set each stone. It depends on the stone, the setting style (claw, bezel, channel, flush, micro pave) and the size.
  4. Design. CAD modelling and rendering time. Charge for it even when the client does not order the piece, or at least decide deliberately not to.
  5. Making. Casting, assembly and bench time.
  6. Finishing. Polishing, plating (for example rhodium) and any engraving.
  7. Markup and VAT. Add a consistent markup percentage on the total cost, then VAT if you are VAT-registered (15% at the time of writing).

A worked example

An 18ct yellow gold ring with one centre stone. These are round numbers chosen to show the arithmetic, not market prices.

LineWorkingAmount
Metal6 g of 18ct at R1,700 a gramR10,200.00
Centre stoneOne stoneR6,000.00
SettingClaw setting, one stoneR600.00
Design (CAD)Model and renderR1,500.00
MakingCasting and assemblyR2,000.00
FinishingPolishR400.00
Total costR20,700.00
Markup30% of R20,700R6,210.00
Price before VATR26,910.00
VAT15% of R26,910R4,036.50
Price to the clientR30,946.50

Change the gold price to R1,800 a gram and the metal line becomes R10,800, which moves the cost, the markup, the VAT and the final price. That is why a quote needs a validity date.

Mistakes that cost money

Make it repeatable

The method is simple; the trouble is doing it the same way every time, with today's metal price, under pressure, with a client waiting. Write your rates down once (setting by stone and style, design, making, finishing), keep one markup rule, and let a tool apply them in the same order each time. That is what ELIPHASx does.

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